Sterling Silver Rings are set with Gem stones, and Semi Precious Gem Stones such as Amethyst, Citrine, Emerald, Iolite, Peridot, Blue Topaz and Ruby. True Gem Stones are determined by their type and quality.

You see a Sterling Silver Ring set with an Amethyst. Is this Sterling Silver Ring set with a Gem Stone? Even though the Amethyst has a deep purple color, it is very large and has a very good cut you would be wrong! The Federal Trade Commission has established their own "standards" for which colored stones may be bestowed with the title GEM STONES or GEMSTONE. The use of the description GEM STONE is limited to EMERALD, RUBY, TOPAZ, and SAPPHIRE of considerable value.

Semi Precious Gem stones was, and may still be used by many to describe most other colored stones such as citrine, garnet, blue topaz and aquamarine. However aquamarine costs many times more than citrine or garnet. Therefore the term semi precious is less meaningful as it does not refer to stones of similar value. A sterling silver ring set with an aquamarine would be much more costly than the same ring set with a garnet.

So if we cannot refer to stones as Gem stones or even Semi Precious gem stones we are left with the simple term stones. That seems simple enough, but there are more complications.

All jewels set in Sterling Silver Rings can not even be called Stones. A Stone must be of natural origin. It must be mined from the earth. Some of the most common Stones are Amethyst, Citrine, Garnet, Iolite,Peridot,Turquoise, Zircon (not to be confused with CZ, or Cubic Zirconium), and Topaz. Also Ruby, Emerald, and Sapphire that are not of considerable value are also be referred to as stones. All of these stones are often set into sterling silver rings.

The next division of products are man made jewels. The term Laboratory created stones (Lab stones) is generally applied to man made substances that have chemical and crystal properties that are almost identical to natural stones. The most commonly available laboratory created stones are Ruby and Emerald, though others are made. These products, of very high quality,sell for about one third to one half the cost of the natural equivalent. These products can still sell for thousands of dollars. Many jewelers, who are not certified gemologist and, or, are only using a hand held magnifier may not be able to tell the difference between a natural and laboratory created gemstone. A gem laboratory with proper equipment should be able to tell the difference. One of the indicators is that these products are too perfect. Most natural stones will have at least some small internal defects, called inclusions. The Laboratory created stones many not have inclusions as found in nature, but they will have other traits that a gem laboratory should be able to detect.

The final category of jewels can range from glass to plastic, and other materials. One of the most common of these is known as CZ, or Cubic Zirconium. CZ bears some visual likeness to a diamond, however it's physical properties have no resemblance to those of a real diamond. CZ is softer than a diamond and does not have it's durability. There are even processes today where a very thin layer of an expensive stone is sandwiched between a clear quartz top, and a base.

There are other materials used to decorate sterling silver rings that are not stones at all. Two common materials are Coral which is harvested from the sea, and Mother of pearl which is a section of a sea shell which is cut and polished. Many other natural materials, including pearls are used.

While discussing stones, the treatment of stones should be mentioned. There are many common practices used in the trade to enhance the color of stones.

The most common, and age old practice is to heat the stones. Heating will cause color changes which are permanent in most cases. Stones that are commonly heated include Amethyst, Citrine, Tanzanite, Blue Topaz and even Ruby. Assume that almost all sterling silver rings that we sell have heat treated stones.

A newer treatment is diffusion. This process involves heating a stone in the presence of chemical elements that the stone lacks. Color is thereby added to the stone. This process may or may not be permanent. Very often the treatment only colors the surface of the stone. Therefore if the stone is scratched or chipped there may be an area without color. Diffusion is a great process to produce lower price stones that resemble natural stones with excellent color. However a diffusion treated stone is only worth a small fraction of the value of the same type of stone with natural color.

Today many expensive stones, and even diamonds are exposed to various forms of radiation, or heat and pressure to cause color changes. Radical color changes can be achieved. The process should be permanent but time will tell if the stones hold their new color.

Most Emeralds, except the finest gem grade have very small cracks, called fissures on their surface. There are age old methods of applying waxes, oils, and newer processes with other chemicals used to coat the surface of the emerald and seal the fissures. If the sealing substance wears off an expensive emerald a professional jeweler should be able to have it resealed. For very inexpensive emeralds, such as those used in sterling silver rings the cost of professional resealing is not justified, try an acrylic floor wax.

There are many, many enhancement methods used today. Many of the stones are cut and finished in Asia. The "Stone burners", as these processors are referred to are small family controlled businesses that do not disclose their secret processes. Until recently the diffusion method was a secret. Gem dealers became suspicious when large quantities of very fine colored stones started to come on the market. It took some time but gem laboratories where finally able to detect the treatment method.

Realistically speaking Sterling Silver Rings that sell for less than $40.00 are very unlikely to have stones that have been treated with any method other than heat, or diffusion except for Emeralds that are coated. The stones will be of commercial grade, which means that they are not of the finest color, and will have inclusions. If we are aware of a treatment method other than heating used on the stones in our rings we will disclose it.

Natural stones mounted in sterling silver rings are harder and should wear better than many synthetic materials used in costume jewelry

Sterling Silver Rings are commonly mounted with round, oval, and marquise semi precious gemstone cuts. It is possible to design a sterling silver ring to be mounted with all standard, and free form cuts. However as a practical matter most sterling silver rings will contain one of these three cuts. Sterling silver rings that are mounted with CZ, Cubic Zirconia, will also often contain pear, emerald,and baguettes cuts. The reason is that these shapes are more commonly used in diamond rings. Since clear Cubic Zirconia is used as a diamond substitute the rings often take
the appearance of diamond engagement, eternity or cluster rings. Heart and Trillant cuts are more rarely used.

Calibrated Stones are simply stones cut to standard sizes. Among the most common examples are round 5 mm, and 6 mm, stones (a well cut 1 carat round diamond is a little larger than 6 mm, or 1/4 inches across). Many of the sterling silver rings that we offer are set with 6 x 4 mm, or 7 x 5 mm oval stones. The purpose of Calibrated Stones is to permit the manufacture of settings that do not need special alterations to complete the mounting process. Using a combination of settings and matching size stones permits the economical product of sterling silver rings.

These are the most common shape faceted cut stones used in sterling silver rings.

 Round     Oval      Marquise       Pear       Emerald   Heart  Trilliant  Triangle
                                           

Round stones are commonly used as an individual stones in sizes 4 mm, 5 mm, and 6 mm. Small stones such as 2 mm, and 3 mm often are used in multi stone settings.

Oval stones in sizes 6 mm x 4 mm, and 7 mm x 5 mm are typical center stones. Oval stones are available in much large sizes, but are rarely used in inexpensive sterling silver rings as the weight, and cost of the stone greatly increases as the stones size increases.

Marquise shape stones represent a good value. A 10 mm x 5 mm stones gives a large appearance in proportion to its weight.

Pear and heart cut stones are not as common as many of the natural crystals from which semi precious stones are cut tend to be rectangle in the uncut form. Therefore the same uncut stone can be cut into a larger oval than a pear, or a heart. CZ, Cubic Zirconia, is often cut pear shaped, as the shape is more common in diamonds which the Cubic Zirconia, is used to replace. Emerald cuts are more common in expensive gemstones, or cubic zirconia.

Trilliant and Triangle cuts are very similar. Both cuts have tree corners however the trilliant has sides that are more rounded than straight. These are are rarely seen in sterling silver rings as they are more suited for earrings in the small sizes, and pendants in the larger sizes.